Elegance from the Languedoc

I happen to be very fond of wines from southern France - there are quite a few under-appreciated gems to be found there (if you haven't had Madiran, that is an experience worth seeking out). One of the regions that delights me the most is the Languedoc. The wines use the same set of grapes as in the Rhone, but with a higher percentage of Carignan (as much as 50%). I tend to think of the Rhone as being more refined, and of all the wine of southern France Chateauneuf-du-Pape is by far my favorite. The Languedoc, on the other hand, offers a more country-style, barnyard, and in my mind 'impolite' expression. I affectionately refer to many of these wines as 'monsters.' In fact, the first time a friend and neighbor of mine tasted one, he called me up and asked if I could come taste it, because he was worried that there was something wrong with it. So I went and tasted it, and my first reaction was a huge smile - that rich, earthy, barnyard of a wine was delightful!

This past weekend the same neighbor had another bottle from the Languedoc open (I seem to have converted him!), and this one surprised me, for though it had all of the rich, earthy character I love in these wines, it actually managed to be elegant - something I definitely hadn't encountered before. The wine was made by Hegarty-Chamans (http://hegartychamans.com/), who are located in Minervois (my favorite appelation in the region). Although they produce Minervois AC wines, this particular one was a humble Vin de Table, their 'Cuvee No. 3,' a blend of 50% Carignan, 40% Syrah, and 10% Grenache. Why that didn't qualify for the AC I don't know - but it's the wine in the glass that matters!

Hegarty Chamans Cuvee No. 3 Vin de Table 2003
This is made and bottled in Minervois, although it doesn't carry the AC designation. A nice, deep purple color, with a very nice, rich, sweet, and floral (suprise!) nose. On the palate, red fruits upfront, with a touch of minerals providing an almost 'cherry-cola' character, and then sweet nectarine before an earthy finish. Perhaps some herbal notes as well, along with those surprising, floral (dare I say lilac) aromatics. An elegant wine, with 'gentle' aspects to its character - a huge surprise from the Languedoc - and yet still distinctly of its place. 50% Carignan, 40% Syrah, and 10% Grenache. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Excellent (87 - 90) (5/3/08).


Languedoc appelations to look for: Coteaux du Languedoc (more burly, country-style wines), Minervois (more refined), Costieres de Nimes (sometimes considered part of the Rhone, and it depends on the producer which style they go for)

Kinarty Winery

The Sea Of Galilee is a beautiful and historically important place. On this lake's shore, almost one hundred years ago, Jewish pioneers built their first cooperative farming village "Kvutzat Kinneret". This is the cradle of the Kibbutz. The most successful form of a socialist farming community. It was nice to sample a bottle of wine from the newly founded Kinarty Winery from Kvutzat Kinneret. The 100 years old vision of Israeli agriculture is taking a new and interesting direction in the form of growing high end grapes and producing excellent wine.

Kinarty Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Nice red/purple color, both body and color are medium. Plums, blueberries, chocolate merge nicely into this round and friendly wine. The wine is a bit too sweet, lacking acidity. Nice, medium finish. Very Good (86)

Chateau Hallet Sauternes 2005

I've had a number of absolutely delightful dry whites from the 2005 Bordeaux vintage, and have very much enjoyed the remarkable combination of freshness and depth they have. In February I got my first chance to try a 2005 Sauternes, and in this wine at least, I dare say you see at least some of that same delightful character - I'll definitely be looking foward to tasting other Sauternes of the vintage. And at $15 per half bottle, this one is a great value.

Chateau Hallet Sauternes 2005
My first taste of a Sauternes from this heralded vintage. Apricot, tropical fruits, then loads of candied fruit and honey. Medium bodied, with nice balance. Definitely reminds one of the delightful freshness and depth that the dry whites of the vintage have. Should drink very nicely for the next 5 years or so. (2/16/08) Excellent/Exceptional (89 - 91).

Spain & Portugal Tasting

I've been quite ignorant when it came to Spain & Portugal, with Rijoa (Spain) and Port (Portugal) as the only exceptions. However, this tasting has shown that there is a lot more than these regions. The tasting was held last month in a local branch of the wine store chain wineroute. The tasting was from various regions and price ranges, but has clearly shown that at almost all price ranges there are excellent to classical wine. This tasting has clearly shown that one needs to pay a lot more attension to these wine growing countries.

Marques de Riscal, Rueda 2005
Maybe two years ago this was a nice wine. Over the top with yellowish color and some musty aroma. The good stuff was grapefruit and flower scents. 70
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas 2005
Very dark color, medium to light bodied wine. Pomagrants, red berries and light tannins. very balanced and fruity wine with a nice finish. 87
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Reserva 2003
very dark color, medium bodied. Blackberries, plums, red cherries with delicate tannins and balanced acidity. This is a complex and interesting wine which one can either love or hate. I loved it. The finish was pretty good but not really tasty. 89
Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez, Pesquera Crianza 2003
Full bodied and dark color. Plums, blackberries, light spicy and olives as well as light smokey aroma. A long and very pleasent finish. 90
Artadi, Vinas de Gain 2005
Strawberries, rassberries, violets, flower scents, a bit vanilla and light green spices. Balanced with a good, medium length, finish. 89
Roda I 2001
Rich and complex wine. Leather, plums, blackberries, rich and a bit hot spices, cinamon and a clear nutty aroma. Excellent finish. 92
El Seque 2005
Blueberries, red berries, blackberries are accompanied by light and balanced acidity. Not a very deep and serious drink, but still offers a nice drink. 86
Santa Cruz de Artazu 2003
Cherries, red berries, pepper and spices. Coffee and a bit leather appeared later on. A good amount of tannins and an excellent finish. Excellent. 92
Mas Martinet, Martinet Bru 2005
Round and smooth wine. Black pepper, blackberries, black olives, coffee and an excellent spiciness. Very well balanced with good acidity and medium finish. 90
Clos Mogador 2003
Round, flavorable and excellent wine. The best wine in this tasting and one of the best wines I've had lately. Blueberries, blackberries, violets and black cherries. A second layer of nut, cassis and cola all compose this deep and concentrated wine. Excellent finish - dry plums. Wow. 96